Cherishing your Skin Barrier!
The (often abused) skin barrier is still having a moment my witches! At least some conversation around this subject is becoming more commonplace. For that I am truly grateful! But clients are understandably confused by all the information they’re bombarded with. So without further ado, let’s dive into this together!
With every client, we will discuss skin barrier health! It is absolutely an integral part of your skin journey. The missing piece of the puzzle needed to heal so many issues. Indeed the topic of the skin barrier is seemingly everywhere online. But oftentimes it’s preached in our industry in conjunction with barrier disruptive treatments (I’m looking at you dermaplaning, harsh acids, and chemical peels) We need to nurture and take care of our skin barrier! Because this is how we forge the path to your long term skin health goals!
WHAT IS THE SKIN BARRIER?
The critical first line of defense of our stratum corneum (outermost layer of the epidermis) is our acid mantle which is a protective thin film made up of secretions from sebum, sweat glands, and lipids. These components form a hydrolipidic (meaning oil & water) film to protect the skin from drying out and also from certain forms of bacteria, other microorganisms and exposure to external factors. The acid mantle has an average pH that is slightly acidic of 5.5. A balanced pH is integral for maintaining proper acidic levels to protect from pathogens and regulating enzymatic functions with our skin. Our acid mantle is part of our skin’s barrier function!
An analogy of a brick wall is often used to describe the rest of our skin barrier & this visual below helps you see it quite nicely!
Your corneocytes aka compact outermost skin cells are the brick helping to block entry of any potential irritants. They are held together by your lipid matrix (ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol) aka the mortar. Acting as the “glue” between cells creating a continuous barrier. Just like a brick wall keeps unwanted elements out, so does your skin barrier help prevent harm from penetrating your skin!
When functioning properly, it does exactly what it sounds like - shielding us from outside stressors! It is basically our skin’s ability to act as a barrier to guard moisture (transepidermal water loss or TEWL) and keep bad stuff at bay (like irritants and pathogens). Think of it like a fortress that is protecting us at all times. If the skin barrier is damaged or not working optimally is when skin runs into issues! It can become dry or dull, overly sensitive, redness, & be more prone to inflammation & infections(to list just some of potential problems!) So it’s pretty dang important to keep it happy!
SO WHAT MESSES UP A SKIN BARRIER?
There are quite a number of causes which can contribute to barrier damage function or an impaired skin barrier. Often it can be a combination of multiple things being done at once as well. Here are some I see quite often with my clients:
🛑over exfoliation
🛑overcleansing
🛑washing face with hot water
🛑using skincare products with incorrect pH or harsh surfactants
🛑 disruptive skin barrier treatments
🛑using straight oils on your face for prolonged periods of time
🛑UV rays, heat, & pollutants
🛑cold weather & wind
🛑Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency
HOW CAN I TELL IF I F’ED MINE UP?
Here are some of the common signs of an impaired barrier. There can be many different symptoms. Some clients may only experience a few and others may be dealing with quite a number depending on severity. If you’re having a general feeling of unease about your skin and it’s feeling “off” this can often be a sign of barrier disruption and you should note it to your esthetician
⚠️sensitivity or redness
⚠️dryness
⚠️ feeling of dullness
⚠️itching or irritation
⚠️ flakiness/peeling
⚠️increased breakouts
⚠️feeling rough to the touch
⚠️tightness
⚠️stinging or burning when applying any products
* If you have Rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis these are skin barrier disordered skins and need to be treated with the up most care.
HEALING YOUR SKIN BARRIER:
Depending on the client- skin barrier repair can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months depending on severity of their impairment. The products you have used and treatments you have undergone will all play a role in the repair time.
🧼Start by eliminating cleansers that make your skin feel tight right after washing. Bar soaps are also a no go for your face, the pH balance is not correct often, and overtime can mess with your barrier function.
🚿No more washing your face with hot water. If you can’t trust yourself to use cold or lukewarm water at the end, I beg of you to just take the cleanser out of the shower!
🔥Continuing to exfoliate with a disrupted barrier is like throwing gasoline onto a fire. Take a few weeks off from using any actives (retinols, AHAS, BHAS, Vit C)
Make sure you are getting your EFAs either through diet and or supplements as essential fatty acid deficiency is a leading cause of skin barrier disruption. My choices are eating flax seeds, walnuts, chia seeds, and an Ahiflower supplement for a vegan Omega option!
And of course, we shall start to rebuild your barrier with products containing ceramides, efas, and cholesterols. All the things needed to keep your skin barrier healthy and strong! As your skin heals, add exfoliants back in slowly(ideally one at a time) and take care to notice how each one reacts. You simply may not ever be able to use as many products at the same time without getting yourself into the same predicament. Remember with exfoliation - less is often more.
Don’t forget to protect your beautiful barrier every day with SPF protection and reapply accordingly throughout your day! Tizo Am Replenish aka the best SPF!
FAV PRODUCTS FOR BARRIER HEALTH:
I have been loving the AnteAGE cleanser for barrier health for my clients recently! It is a gentle foaming gel cleanser designed for all skin types including the most sensitive of skins including Rosacea clients! Completely non pore clogging as well. It is formulated with essential fatty acids to enrich the skin barrier and to prevent dehydration in the skin!
Globiotic Serum by Roccoco Botanicals is a truly amazing serum for skin barrier repair! It is an encapsulated live probiotic serum that helps balance your skin’s microbiome. It aids in barrier repair and hydration by increasing cholesterol and hyaluronic production within the skin. Also skin smoothing, decreased irritation and itching within the skin.
* some clients may experience a slight response (warmth or redness) particularly if the microbiome is unbalanced. I suggest using it in the PM to see how your skin reacts. It often doesn’t last more than a few days
Roccoco Botanicals Ceramide Booster Serum is the last favorite I will touch on here! This fusion of hydrating ingredients is designed to restore the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss. Contains a blend of sugar molecules designed to increase skin water reservoirs and stimulate ceramide production thus strengthening the skin's barrier. I love using this in cooler months, air travel, & whenever my skin needs a boost of moisture added to it.
note sugar molecules within the serum can increase enzymes involved with desquamation that Rosacea skin already over expresses. The release of these enzymes promotes secretion of proinflammatory cytokines contributing to the inflammatory cycle of Rosacea so it is not suitable for that skin condition.
This was in no way shape or form an exhaustive list of beloved skin barrier products I carry! Just wanted to touch on a few favorites. Please reach out if you are having any questions! Let’s get and keep that skin barrier healthy! Long Term sustainable skin health is the name of this game and I promise you will be absolutely glowing! Love your gorgeous faces!